Exploring the real Downton Abbey

In September, the American Women's Club sponsored a trip to Highclere Castle, which is west of London in the county of Hampshire.  It is also the filming location for the popular series, Downton Abbey.   It was a picture perfect day for a country escape, always my favorite thing to do in England.   As we approached the castle, the 1,000 acres were filled with grazing sheep, ancient footpaths and beautiful views across the rolling hills of North Hampshire.

In the distance on the top right, you might be able to see a "folly".  In the early 1700's when Robert Herbert inherited the estate, he build 12 follies on the land to create views and observation points to "wonder at and admire" the landscape.  Today five of them remain.  The one in this picture is called "Heaven's Gate" 

Highclere has been part of the Carnarvon family since the late 17th century and is still the family home although the family has a smaller house nearby where they spend most of their time.  The area around Highclere has been inhabited since prehistoric times.  A Bronze Age burial ground was found on the grounds. 

In 1838, the 3rd Earl of Carnarvon brought Sir Charles Barry in to transform his home into a grand mansion which would impress the world.  If you notice a likeness between Highclere and the Houses Of Parliament in London, it's because Barry also built Parliament.  

The front doors were beautiful wooden doors 

which opened into a 

gothic entrance hall. 

Above the front door to the Castle is this carving which includes the date of the building

 and the family motto:
"Unc je Serviray"~ Only One will I serve.

We were not allowed to take pictures in the house; however, there WAS  one picture taken before the announcement of the "no pictures". This is the Saloon which is the heart of the house.  

entrance room where we were served tea

 As we arrived, we were treated to tea and crumpets (well, I don't think they were crumpets) and then we toured the house, including the infamous red bedroom!  The current owners, have been re-decorating the Gallery and bedrooms to recreate the standard of furnishing that guests visiting Highclere would have enjoyed in the past.  In fact, as we were touring, we were greeted by the current Countess of Carnarvon who was happy to explain her redecorating scheme.

Even though the series Downton Abbey is fictional , it follows the history of Highclere closely. As in the series, Highclere was also a hospital during WWI. Highclere Castle was part of the center of the English world during Victorian and Edwardian times. Guests arrived with their valets and chauffeurs; all had to be catered for. Besides the inside castle staff of 19 or 20, there were 19 Gamekeepers, 20 gardeners, 30 foresters and 4 or 5 grooms and a stable boy! 

View from the back of Highclere Castle

Huge tree with bench~ you might remember seeing this in Downton Abbey

walls and arches of the entrance to the Gardens

which survive from the Georgian period. 

The earliest record of a garden dates from 1218.  

Cedar trees frame the Castle on the sides

Highclere Castle as you approach the entrance

One of the unexpected parts of our tour was the tour of the Egyptian Exhibition in the lower level of the house.  The 5th Earl, along with his friend, Howard Carter, discovered the tomb of the Egyptian Pharaoh Tutankhamun. The exhibition was filled with hundreds of relics from the days when the 5th Earl was in Egypt excavating nobles' tombs.
Whether you are a Downton Abbey follower or not, I hope you agree that this is a part of British history which is fascinating and still lives on thanks to the families of those that are now preserving these amazing estates.

  Downton Abbey series 3 has just ended in the U.K.  (except for the Christmas special) .    I will admit, I had not been watching it until after I visited Highclere.  Thanks to a friend who lent me the first two series, I became hooked and watched series 3. Yes, it's a little like a soap opera.  But a soap opera that takes us back to a time when American heiresses were arriving to marry European aristocracy and to a time when the British Empire was at it's peak. After watching Downton Abbey, I'm anxious to read more about this fascinating era.