Mine own romantic town

Last April, our good friends Eva and John visited us from Cleveland. John has a sister that lives in England, so while he visited her and Tom was working, Eva and I headed north to Edinburgh (with a short stop in York, subject of a previous blog.)  Then in late May, Tom and I took a long weekend and visited Loch Lomond and then stopped in Edinburgh on the way home.  The pictures are from both weekends.

Edinburgh is a much smaller city than London so it's a fun city to walk around (if you like hills)  and try to absorb the immense history of this beautiful city.  These are just a few highlights of my two spring trips to Edinburgh.

Edinburgh Castle is built on volcanic rock created around 340 million B.C. and around 900 B.C. there was archaeological evidence for human settlement. The first historical reference to a fortress on the rock was around A.D. 600.  It's history is overwhelming and as the castle history states, it's history is Scotland's history.  Kings, Queens, crown jewels, wars.. all were part of this fortress.  It's location is easy to say why it was such a strategic part of Edinburgh.

The view from Edinburgh Castle looking out to the Firth of Forth and the section of  the city called New Town.

On a clear day, the views from the castle are spectacular .

In late May, they were already constructing bleachers for the world famous Military Tattoo which is
 held for three weeks in August.

Eva and I at the top of Edinburgh castle.

I love the view looking from the canons to the city with the sea in the background.  

If you have any Scottish ancestors, it's not hard to find the clan tartan in the woolen shops in Edinburgh.  Eva and I were looking for McQueen and Maxwell plaids!  

The castle sits high on a rock above the city.  The castle has been both a fort and a royal residence since the 11th century.

The Royal Mile ~  the Royal Mile is four different streets (actually 200 yards longer than a mile) that extend from near the castle down a hill to the Palace of Holyrood.  The Royal Mile is filled with shop, cafes, and tiny alleys  (a close) leading to tiny squares.  

About half way down the Royal Mile, is St. Giles Cathedral, Scotland's most important church.  It was founded in the 1120's but is best known as the church of John Knox, the leader of the Scottish Reformation.  He was the Minister of St. Giles from 1559 to 1572 after he led the Lords of the Congregation into Edinburgh.  He played a principal role in establishing the styles of worship that were to be accepted throughout the country.

St. Giles' Cathedral

The organ at  St. Giles' is a Rieger organ (Austrian) that was built  in 1992 and made of beautiful Austrian oak.

                                                               

ceiling of St. Giles' Cathedral

The Palace of Holyrood is at the end of the Royal Mile.  The Queen usually spends a week here each summer.  The ruins that you see are the ruins of an abbey-part of a 12th century Augustinian monastery  that originally was here.  Scotland's royalty preferred to stay at the Palace of Holyrood rather than in Edinburgh Castle which could be quite windy.

Palace of Holyrood, Edinburgh

Such dusky grandeur clothed the height

Where all the huge castle holds it state

And all the steep slope down

Whose ridgy back heaves to the sky

Piled deep and massy, close and high

Mine own romantic town.

(Marmion Canto IV, Sir Walter Scott)

Exploring the real Downton Abbey

In September, the American Women's Club sponsored a trip to Highclere Castle, which is west of London in the county of Hampshire.  It is also the filming location for the popular series, Downton Abbey.   It was a picture perfect day for a country escape, always my favorite thing to do in England.   As we approached the castle, the 1,000 acres were filled with grazing sheep, ancient footpaths and beautiful views across the rolling hills of North Hampshire.

In the distance on the top right, you might be able to see a "folly".  In the early 1700's when Robert Herbert inherited the estate, he build 12 follies on the land to create views and observation points to "wonder at and admire" the landscape.  Today five of them remain.  The one in this picture is called "Heaven's Gate" 

Highclere has been part of the Carnarvon family since the late 17th century and is still the family home although the family has a smaller house nearby where they spend most of their time.  The area around Highclere has been inhabited since prehistoric times.  A Bronze Age burial ground was found on the grounds. 

In 1838, the 3rd Earl of Carnarvon brought Sir Charles Barry in to transform his home into a grand mansion which would impress the world.  If you notice a likeness between Highclere and the Houses Of Parliament in London, it's because Barry also built Parliament.  

The front doors were beautiful wooden doors 

which opened into a 

gothic entrance hall. 

Above the front door to the Castle is this carving which includes the date of the building

 and the family motto:
"Unc je Serviray"~ Only One will I serve.

We were not allowed to take pictures in the house; however, there WAS  one picture taken before the announcement of the "no pictures". This is the Saloon which is the heart of the house.  

entrance room where we were served tea

 As we arrived, we were treated to tea and crumpets (well, I don't think they were crumpets) and then we toured the house, including the infamous red bedroom!  The current owners, have been re-decorating the Gallery and bedrooms to recreate the standard of furnishing that guests visiting Highclere would have enjoyed in the past.  In fact, as we were touring, we were greeted by the current Countess of Carnarvon who was happy to explain her redecorating scheme.

Even though the series Downton Abbey is fictional , it follows the history of Highclere closely. As in the series, Highclere was also a hospital during WWI. Highclere Castle was part of the center of the English world during Victorian and Edwardian times. Guests arrived with their valets and chauffeurs; all had to be catered for. Besides the inside castle staff of 19 or 20, there were 19 Gamekeepers, 20 gardeners, 30 foresters and 4 or 5 grooms and a stable boy! 

View from the back of Highclere Castle

Huge tree with bench~ you might remember seeing this in Downton Abbey

walls and arches of the entrance to the Gardens

which survive from the Georgian period. 

The earliest record of a garden dates from 1218.  

Cedar trees frame the Castle on the sides

Highclere Castle as you approach the entrance

One of the unexpected parts of our tour was the tour of the Egyptian Exhibition in the lower level of the house.  The 5th Earl, along with his friend, Howard Carter, discovered the tomb of the Egyptian Pharaoh Tutankhamun. The exhibition was filled with hundreds of relics from the days when the 5th Earl was in Egypt excavating nobles' tombs.
Whether you are a Downton Abbey follower or not, I hope you agree that this is a part of British history which is fascinating and still lives on thanks to the families of those that are now preserving these amazing estates.

  Downton Abbey series 3 has just ended in the U.K.  (except for the Christmas special) .    I will admit, I had not been watching it until after I visited Highclere.  Thanks to a friend who lent me the first two series, I became hooked and watched series 3. Yes, it's a little like a soap opera.  But a soap opera that takes us back to a time when American heiresses were arriving to marry European aristocracy and to a time when the British Empire was at it's peak. After watching Downton Abbey, I'm anxious to read more about this fascinating era.