The last time I saw Paris....

"A walk about Paris will provide lessons in history, beauty, and in the point of Life."

~Thomas Jefferson

When my college friends Barb and Marty were in London last September, we decided to do a whirlwind tour of Paris.  Paris in thirty six hours. Of course in Paris, you could spend thirty six days and it still wouldn't be enough time, but here's what we saw in thirty-six hours.  Armed with Rick Steves' Pocket Paris guide, we took the 7:00 a.m. Eurostar train from St. Pancras and in two hours we were in the center of Paris, ready to start the adventure.

Our hotel was situated in the Latin Quarter which was very near the Jardin du Luxembourg, so after dropping our luggage at the hotel, we headed to see these beautiful gardens. The 60-acre gardens are gorgeous with fountains, statues and the Luxembourg Palace as the anchor building in the park.

The gardens are completely changed out three times a year

A short walk from the Luxembourg Garden is the St. Sulpice Church, famous for a mention in the Da Vinci Code.   The 7,000 pipe organ is also famous and has a 300 year old tradition of great organists playing there. For over a century, only two organists,Charles Marie-Widor (1870-1933) Marcel Dupré (1934-1971) were employed there.  Daniel Roth has been the well known organist at St. Sulpice since 1985. 

d

A display of fresh meats and fish at a market in the Latin Quarter.

 Notre Dame.  A few pictures and minor description can not possibly do justice to such an amazing structure.  Ground was broken in 1163 with the dedication Mass taking place two centuries later, in 1345.  People working on the cathedral hauled huge stones from distant quarries, digging a 30-foot-deep trench to lay the foundation.

                               

This door is the central door- The Last Judgment Relief (completed in the 1220's)   Above the doorway, Christ sits on the throne of judgment holding both hands up. The arches are sculpted with angels, prophets, martyrs, virgins.

The interior of the church is Gothic..  A long central nave lined with columns and flanked by side aisles , designed in the shape of a cross, with the altar place where the crossbeam intersects.  The church can hold ten thousand people!

Gargoyles were supposed to protect the cathedral against evil spirits.  They are carved stone figures that were mostly used in religious medieval architecture.  They also act as gutters as they collect the water running down the roof and deflect it away from the masonry to protect it.  

Notre Dame Cathedral and it's flying buttresses

Palace de Justice, home of French judicial courts. 

Sainte-Chapelle is known for it's stained glass; 1,100 scenes of stained glass built between 1242 and 1248 for King Louis IX to house the supposed Crown of Thorns.  Fifteen separate panels of stained glass cover 6,500 square feet.  It is overwhelming to stand in the middle and take in all of the different colors and scenes.

photo: www/aviewoncities.com

Our last stop of the day was the Musée d'Orsay.  Impressionism at it's best.  Manet, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Van Gogh, Cézanne and Gauguin.  Rick Steve's likes it better than the Louvre and I agree.  It was a much easier museum to navigate and enjoy.

Clock inside the Musée d'Orsay.  Sacré-Coeur is in the distance.

We celebrated our first day in Paris with a well deserved glass of  French wine.

Our last day in Paris was filled with more sightseeing.  Eiffel Tower, The Louvre, Arc de triomphe and Champs-Elysées, Montmartre, Sacré-Coeur and then a walk back to the Gare-du-Nord to catch the Eurostar back to London.

Eiffel Tower ~ We walked to it, took a picture and moved on!

The pyramid entrance of the Louvre with part of the Louvre  in the background

Our tour of the Louvre was brief.  You could spend a week in the Louvre and not see it all.  We saw lots of crowds, used our Paris pass to skip the entry lines and headed up to the Rubens room.   

  These paintings, the Marie de' Medici Cycle is a series of twenty-four paintings by Rubens commissioned by Marie de' Medici for the Luxembourg Palace in Paris.  Twenty-one of the paintings depict Marie's own struggles and triumphs in life. The size and scope of these paintings was overwhelming.  

Marty and Barb climbed to the top of the Arc de Triomphe.  I had climbed it once before, so I did some people watching on the Champs-Elysées.  

Luckily, the Metro (subway) is easy to use in Paris, so we were able to travel efficiently to all the highlights.  Our last stop of the day was Montmartre and Sacré-Coeur.   Montmartre and the famous Sacré-Coeur sit on the top of a very high hill  that overlooks the city.  

Picture of Sacré-Coeur  and the Montmartre hill from a Paris trip in 2003

Montmartre is a hill that is known for it's history of bohemian artists, nightlife and drinking.  Napoleon had given much of the prime land inside the city to his wealthy friends so the original inhabitants were forced to move to the outskirts where there were no rules and regulations.  During the late 1800s, Pissarro, Degas, Matisse, Renoir and Picasso lived in the area.    Today Montmartre is a stop for tourists who want to have a meal, tour the Sacré-Coeur or watch artists paint  and try and sell you a picture in the Place due Tertre .

our stop for lunch on Montmartre.  Frites!

Prawn salad: healthy!

some of the paintings for sale in Place du Tertre

The Sacré-Coeur Basilica~on the top of Montmartre

We had a quick walk back to the train station for our two hour ride to London.   Our whirlwind tour of Paris was complete!  Day one:  Taxi, tube, Eurostar, taxi, walking, taxi.  Day two:  walking, Metro, walking, Metro, walking, Funicular, walking, Eurostar, tube, walking, home and a big bottle of Aleve!

Barb and Marty at the Gare du Nord, ready for the Eurostar home to London!

Chatsworth~ a day at a country house in Derbyshire

My very favorite thing to do in England is to take a train ride to an historic spot in the English countryside.  Last September, ten of us left St. Pancras train station very early one morning and travelled to the small town of Chesterfield, which is a short taxi ride away from the manor home of Chatsworth.  Chatsworth is a beautiful property in Derbyshire about a two hour train ride from  London.

photo: Rob Bendall

The Chatsworth house history dates back to the 16th century when Bess of Hardwick married her second husband, Sir William Cavendish.  The Cavendish line continues today.  Sir William Cavendish was one of King Henry VIII's commissioners for the dissolution of the monasteries.  When he married Bess in 1547 she persuaded him to move to her home county.  In 1552 they began to build the first house on the site.  The house was passed down through generations and the 12th Duke of Devonshire acquired the house in 2004.
The house has 126 rooms, with almost 100 of them closed to visitors.  This allows the family to live privately in their apartments while it is open to visitors.  We walked through room after room of beautiful paintings, sculptures and furnishings.

This was the main hall where we first entered

painted ceiling on the staircase going to the second floor

There are over 30,000 books in the Chatsworth library, collected over 400 years

the Great Dining Room

an example of an ornately decorated room at Chatsworth

Although our day at Chatsworth was rainy, we were lucky to be there for the annual Florabundance festival. The house was decorated with modern and traditional displays of beautiful flower arrangements.  All the rooms had floral displays that complemented the rooms.  I didn't even begin to take pictures of all the displays, but here are some of my favorites.

No tour of an English Country home is complete without a proper English tea.  We enjoyed a traditional afternoon tea of sandwiches, scones and clotted cream which were served in the Cavendish rooms, formerly the 18th century stable courtyard.

Even though our day was rainy, we were able to see some of the surrounding gardens and grounds of the estate.  The Chatsworth Estate is 35,000 acres, and the Garden alone has 105 acres~  There are fountains, waterworks and over five miles of walks with rare trees, shrubs, streams and ponds.  Today the Garden is managed by 18 gardeners and trainees.

No picture of the English countryside is complete without a few sheep (the white dots)

Barb and Marty enjoying the gardens

On our way back to the train station, our taxi driver gave us a side tour to see St. Peter's Church in the small town of Edensor, near Chatsworth. In the church yard is a cemetery where Kathleen Kennedy (President Kennedy's sister) the fourth child of Joseph and Rose Kennedy, is buried. She married William Cavendish, the eldest son and heir apparent of the 10th Duke of Devonshire. Four months after her marriage in 1944, her husband was killed while serving in WWII.  She was killed in 1948 in an airplane crash in Southern France. She is buried in the Cavendish family plot.

It is thought that Jane Austen visited Chatsworth in 1811 and used it as the background for Pemberley in Pride and Prejudice.   Parts of the 2005 film Pride and Prejudice were filmed at Chatsworth. 

from Chapter 43, Pride and Prejudice:

It was a large, handsome, stone building, standing well on rising ground, and backed by a ridge of high woody hills; --and in front, a stream of some natural importance was swelled into greater, but without any artificial appearance.

On the train ride back to London, we all agreed that Chatsworth truly was exactly how Jane Austen described it.